Michelin-starred A Cut turns up heat with new live-fire restaurant in Taipei

米其林星級A Cut在台北推出全新炭火料理餐廳

TAIPEI (Taiwan News) — Michelin-starred steakhouse A Cut marked its 20th anniversary with the launch of a new live-fire restaurant brand in Taipei, taking its cooking beyond the hotel setting in which it has operated for two decades.

Located in Taipei’s Garden City shopping mall, The Grill by A Cut shifts the brand’s focus from the precision of traditional steakhouse cooking to the flavors and textures created by open flames. Longan wood burns beneath meat and seafood, adding a smoky aroma that changes how the ingredients taste and feel.

For beef, the focus moves beyond the creamy, cheese-like notes associated with dry-aged meat to the aromas that develop when fat meets intense heat. Seafood takes a similar approach, with high-heat grilling bringing out its natural sweetness and giving it a firmer texture than low-temperature cooking.

The Japan Kyushu ex-breed Wagyu striploin reflects this approach, using beef from mature cattle known for their firmer texture and deeper flavor. Grilled directly over the fire, the steak develops a deeply browned crust while remaining tender and rosy inside. As the fat renders, smoke from the longan wood adds subtle woody notes, giving the beef a more pronounced savory character than the soft, heavily marbled texture commonly associated with Wagyu.

The Australia Copper Tree Farms grass-fed bone-in ribeye offers a different take. The beef is wet-aged at a controlled low temperature before grilling, helping develop a tender texture and balanced flavor.

The fire forms a caramelized crust while the inside remains juicy. The bone adds savory depth, while fresh lemon cuts through the richness and brings the beef’s flavor into sharper focus.

The Taiwan black pork tomahawk chop pairs its grilled texture with a spiced sherry vinaigrette made with sherry vinegar and spices, adding gentle acidity and warmth. Honey apple sauce contributes sweet-tart fruitiness, while tomato and fresh rosemary bring brightness and a light herbal aroma.

The seasonal fish follows the same fire-driven approach, served with a sauce of tomato, capers and herbs that balances sweet, tart and savory notes. Crisp asparagus and fried basil leaves add texture and a fresh herbal touch.

The charcoal-grilled Maine lobster, meanwhile, develops a lightly charred aroma, complemented by rich spiced butter and a squeeze of lemon. Grilled asparagus provides a crisp counterpoint with a subtle smoky flavor.

Beyond grilled dishes, the menu includes a beef tartare made with chopped Australian Wagyu and layers of fried potato. One portion is topped with Japanese sea urchin, while another features Ossetra caviar, giving the familiar steakhouse appetizer a more elaborate presentation.

The raw scallop dish takes a lighter approach, pairing sashimi-grade scallops with cherry radish, kumquat vinaigrette, scallion oil, and chili oil. Miso and koji add savory depth, while shiso provides a fresh herbal finish.

Another seafood starter, yellowtail sashimi, is served with a cilantro and jalapeno sauce, lemon juice and olive oil. Citrus, herbs and a mild kick of heat balance the richness of the fish.

The live-fire concept extends to dessert with Baked Alaska, made with passion fruit sorbet and Meyer lemon ice cream beneath a layer of meringue. The meringue is torched until lightly browned, forming a crisp exterior around the cold, fruity center.

At the table, orange Cognac is poured over the dessert and ignited, sending a brief blue flame across the meringue. The combination of heat, citrus aroma and cold sorbet brings the fire theme through to the final course.

Another key difference between The Grill and A Cut is the menu format. Rather than requiring diners to commit to a traditional steakhouse set menu, The Grill allows guests to order individual dishes. The restaurant also draws on A Cut’s wine experience, offering a selection designed to complement its wider range of dishes and fire-driven flavors.

A Cut Executive Chef William Ling (凌維廉) said live-fire cooking requires an understanding of how heat and smoke can complement an ingredient without masking its natural character. At The Grill, fire serves not only as a source of heat but also as an element that shapes each dish’s aroma and texture, bringing an element of unpredictability to the dining experience.